The sought out Top Fuel Racing Duck bill spoiler for the RX-7 FD3S is finally in my possession.

I am so stoked to have this wing finally, as to not many people in the United States have on, as well as Japan.

The pictures that inspired it all.

and just a quick mock up on my FD.

also I borrowed some TE37’s from another friend..

specs on both wheels

Starion : 16×8 -10

TE37: 17×9.5 +12

heres some pics of wheels on both sides and staggered. enjoy.

Starions

Staggered

The motor set up:

• 13B-RE Streetported Irons
• S5 turbo ll ported rotor housings
• S5 Turbo ll Rotors
• S5 Turbo ll Eccentric shaft
• FD Rotor Bearings and stationary bearings
• Banzai Racing Solid corner seals and springs
• Rotary aviation Apex Super seals(2mm)
• OEM rebuild kit
• 13B-RE intake manifolds(lower and upper)
• 13B-REW Ported throttle body
• Greddy intake elbow
• FD oil pan(modified for the cosmo)
• FD water pump
• FD front cover
• IRP solid poly mounts
• Custom motor mount brackets
• Greddy Alt and water pump pully kit

Fuel set up:

• Custom Fuel rails (made by turblown)
• SS fuel rail lines
• Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
• Supra twin turbo fuel pump
• Baffle/surge tank( going to get one fabricated soon)
• 550 primary, 1600 secondaries

Drive train:

• Act 6 puck clutch
• S R motor sports 11lbs flywheel
• OEM tranny
• OEM drive shaft
• Kaaz 2 way limited slip differential(still need to buy)

Turbo set up:

• Greddy T4 Turbo manifold
• GT35R T4 Garret(still have to buy)
• Wastegate(not sure what to get as of yet)
• SS oil lines for Turbo

Exhaust Set up:

• Apexi GT Spec 4 inch cat back
• straight pipe from turbo
• HKS Twin power ignition set up

Cooling set up:

Oil-

• Dual 25 row CX Racing oil coolers
• SS lines
• Thermostat

Intercooler-

• Custom vmount set up(will fabricate later on)
• Synapse BOV
• Water/meth injection

Radiator-

• CX Racing tripple core radiator(vmount set up)

Managements Ecu, boost:

• Power FC
• Greddy Profec B type 2 boost controller

Chasis:

• Sound deadening  removed
• Auto power 6 point roll cage(powered coated cranberry)
• Oem rear strut bar
• gutted rear portion of the FD
• super pro bushing kit
• Racing beat front sway bar
• Aggressive roll and pull on the fenders
• tranny brace
• Diff brace

Exterior-

• OEM 93 front bumper
• 99 spec front lip
• JDM 99 spec fenders
• 99 spec led tail lights
• shine auto rear roof spoiler
• Top fuel racing duck bill
• Feed side steps
• Spirit R badges
• Rear mud flaps
• D-Max Carbon fiber D1 style vented hood( still have to buy)
• canards(still have to buy)
• Rear carbon pro defuser(still have to buy)

Interior:

• Nardi Deep corn suede 330MM steering wheel
• Rx8 shift knob
• pink ebrake billet
• Defi gauges(still need to buy)
• Auto power 6point roll cage
• Bride vios lll seats or 99 spirit r seats
• PFC commander

Wheels and suspension:

• Powered by max modded FD3S knuckles( for more angle)
• Tein flex( current)
• Super now tow adjusters
• Stance GR+( in the near future)
• SSR Proffesor MS1’s 18×10 +16 18×11 +12
• Starion wheels 16×8-10

Then it dawned on me. I had just taken apart my S5 Turbo 2 motor, due to a blown coolant seal. The rotors, eccentric shaft, and rotor housings were in great near new condition. So I made a few calls, and after talking to Fris at LUCKY 7 RACING in Duarte, I learned that I could use my s5 turbo rotors and housings no problem.

So one of the first things I had done was the porting on the Rotor housings.

Want to give a big thanks to James for the porting.

Stock turbo 2 exhaust port.

Stock on the left, and ported on the right.

and teh awesome ports lol

Soon after I began to start piecing together a rebuild kit.

My original plan was to rebuild this motor my self. But I did not want to risk doing this myself and have something get fucked up.

I took my motor and everything to Lucky 7 Racing.
Dropping off the parts to get cleaned and assembled by Lucky 7 Racing in Duarte CA.

Soon after I dropped of my parts, lucky 7 sent out my Irons (front, intermediate, and rear iron) to get Lapped.

Also they cleaned and specked my rotors.

Before

Clean rotors Lucky 7 style

After cleaning my rotors, they painted my motor purple and black.

All the new parts laid out

Rotary Aviation Super seals.

Assembling the short block.

Nicely lapped side housings.

And finished.

God that motor looks great.

The Journey began in Dec, 2008. In the middle of rebuilding my S5 1990 turbo 2 motor and building my 1990 GTUs turbo, a friend of mine called and offered to sell me a 13B-RE off a customers car. I asked, “how much?”. He responded, “$400″.  I said fuck it, consider it sold to me.

The RE came out of a FD. It was in horrible condition, but I knew I could make it work.

Soon after I had picked up the 13B-RE, I knew it was time to rebuild.

So on December 21, 2008, the day began with me pulling the motor to my front yard, and prepping the tear down.

Funny part was the cops drove by a few times starring at me, along with my neighbors, it happens when you tear down a motor on your front yard lol.

First thing I did was to remove the RE oil pan.

The work space.

The next thing I removed was the Upper Intake Manifold.

Short block after removing the harness and rats nest.

Twin Turbos removed.

Lower Intake Manifold removed. (note the size of the ports )

DAMN GINA!!! those are huge ports

Short block achieved.

And the motor tear down begins.

Rear Iron removed.

Rear Iron.

Rear Rotor.

Center Iron.

Front cover removed.( the only other moving parts in a rotary motor )

Front Iron.

Front rotor.

Upon closer inspection, I found some JDM sand in my coolant jacket.. too funny

Cool rotor shot.

The eccentric shaft on a rotary.

Cleaning up the engine.

After cleaning up the parts, me and my Friend James noticed  a few things on the rear rotor and iron..

Looks like the apex seal chipped.

Messed up Rear housing.

S5 t2 motor and rotors and 13B-RE motor and rotors.

To be continued.

I how ever did not wire up the side markers just yet.. I was to lazy, and it was cold outside…

But I will have it wired up soon enough.. but for now, I have fenders again lulz..

enjoy teh pics.

Driver side.

Pass side

Before fender install.

After

That was not cutting it for me, because my last FC was dumped to the ground.
But now the Tein Flex are installed, and I have lowered the car to a good stance… I still need to lower it more… but I’ll do that another day…

enjoy….

Started the day, looking at the FD with shitty suspesion…. But I knew how this day was going to end.

So this was my first coilover install on the fd.. and it  was interesting lol.

First thing I did was jack up the car, remove the wheels, and I almost forgot that I had Super now parts lol.

Tokico strut spring combo… HORRIBLE!!!

strut removed.

Tein Flex installed.

Driver side.

Tein just look so much nicer.

And for the front.. You can see the front ride height with out the motor.. It is just ugly…

Driver side.

Pass side.

Tein installed.

So at this point, I had to lower the FD evenly, so I used a measuring tape, and counting the rings on the coilovers to get it to a even height.

And the End result… It looks great.. but I do plan on lowering it some time tomorrow… should be fun.

till tomorrow..

I picked up Basically new Tein Flex coilovers(roughly 400 miles on them).

I  cant wait to install these bad boys tomorrow…. should be interesting….

“We’ve finished the first Parts Shop MAX Super Steering Angle Knuckle for FD!

First, I’d like to say thanks to www.rx7club.com members BUDGETSLASHCRY for being brave enough to sacrifice his knuckles, second I’d like to thank local member CAREDDEN for being nice enough to drop his car off for a day to help verify some measurements. Because of both of you guys we have made something truely unique, and we were also able to verify compatibility with readily available & inexpensive parts for Nissan 240sx S14.

Important notes:
> Uses S14 Inner tie rod and s14 tie rod angle spacer
> OEM FD inner is OK but you must clean and use loctite on the rack side threads if the OEM rod is used with a spacer. Outer threads may need to be cut for use with longer s14 outer tie rod end…
> Must have S14 Outer tie rod (oem or aftermarket style are OK)
> Sway bar clears (unlike FC)
> Overall angle is determined by how low the wheel offset is because limiting factor is the LCA (example 18×9+45 or some other wheel size where it already almost touches the LCA = there is no additional angle to be had)
> Geometry still needs to be verified on track to see if there is any further changes needed before we would be willing sell this to others however we are all jiged up to produce this mod if all is well.”

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?3394.40

Yes I am missing my fenders(just sold them on sunday), waiting to get my JDM fenders this week .